The Ballet....Not!

Today’s a holiday in Spain, St. Joseph’s Day, so no work for Evie. Yeah! This morning we toured Palacio Real. What a lavish palace although it’s used only occasionally for royal ceremonies since the royal family moved to a more modest palace years ago. We saw many ornate furnishings and paintings, including a good selection of Goyas, ornate clocks and Stradivarius violins still used for concerts. For lunch we headed back to Mercado San Miguel where we had a selection of olives, cheese, croquettes and open-face sandwiches. Evie had the smallest ice cream cone ever for dessert. Afterwards we rented a rowboat in Parque del Buen Retiro. It was so much fun. The attendant asked Evie is he could have a date with her mother. Evie told him I was taken. South of the lake we went to Palacio de Cristal, a magnificent metal and glass structure. This evening we went to a ballet at the Teatro Real. Or so we thought according to the program. However, the show called C(h)oeurs turned out to be a modern dance which challenged the audience to question their identity as individuals and as a whole. The show kept asking, “Who Am I? Who are you? Come on? Answer me!” It was extremely bizarre, and Evie and I didn’t like it. Oh well, it was an experience. Besides the theater was very elegant and beautiful to see.

Chillin....

It’s 60 degrees here and we’re literally chillin, especially in the shade and wind. This morning we went to El Rastro, a Sunday morning market, in La Latina. It’s one of Europe’s largest flea markets, a real Madrid institution and the best word to describe it is madness. We inched our way through a crowded (that’s an understatement!) maze of streets. Lots of fun but we really had to watch our purse as pickpockets love El Rastro as much as everyone else. Lunch at El Viajero also in the La Latina neighborhood. We sat on the rooftop with a charming view and had tinto de verano (like sangria) and brie but moved downstairs for lunch to stay warm. Afterwards we visited Museo Thyssen-Bornnemisza, a private collection of predominantly European masters. The best part was seeing the temporary Chagall exhibit. It was spectacular to see the artistic development chronologically of this great artist! We found the rest of the museum to be boring as it had b-list paintings of many famous artists. Dinner at Ginger Restaurante in Plaza del Angel,12. After dinner we went to a Flamenco Show at Villa Rosa in Plaza Santa Ana. Awesome!!

What a fabulous day!

Moved to a new hotel this morning called Petit Palace Santa Barbara. Very high tech and modern. Even closer to where Evie lives, about two blocks away. When things aren’t right it’s good to move! Evie planned a fabulous day! The Museo del Prado was our first stop. WOW!! What an art museum! Masterpieces by Goya, Velazquez and Van Der Weyden to name only a few. El Greco’s “The Adoration of the Shepherds” was one of our favorites. Took the photos before I realized you weren’t allowed to take photographs. Lunch at Cirulo de Bellas Artes decorated with elegant chandeliers and statues. Afterwards we strolled through Puerta del Sol, which was alive with people. A mariachi band serenaded the crowd. Then we walked through a restaurant/bar called Museo del Jamon that had huge slabs of ham hanging in it. Very appetizing – NOT! Plaza Mayor was our next stop. The buildings are very grand, but the energy of the square is what really makes it come alive with its outdoor tables and students strewn across the cobblestones. Next we went to Mercado de San Miguel, one of Madrid’s oldest and most beautiful markets, which has undergone major renovation. We ordered some wine and olives and napped a table. Evie chatted with some locals in Spanish. I am so impressed how well she communicates in Spanish. Two friends, Fiona and Lauren, joined us for dinner at Bazaar Restaurant in Chueca. Delicious! Beforehand we had cava and Spanish cheese in the courtyard of the hotel. When they clink glasses here they say "Arriba, abajo, al centro y, al dentro," which means "Up, down, in the center & inside." To cap off the evening we went back to Evie’s family’s apartment where the little sister, Elsa, was having a sleepover party to celebrate her 14th b-day. We arrived about 11:30 pm and the girls we in the kitchen making stir-fry for dinner. About midnight Evie, Fiona and Lauren started painting the girls nails, curling their hair and doing their make-up. That was my cue to say goodnight. What a fabulous day!

Arrived in Madrid!

In just under 2 hours on the fast-speed train I was in Madrid! Evie met me at the hotel. It was fantastic to see her! After a leisurely lunch at Ramses we walked through the Parque Retiro. The splendid gardens are filled with marble monuments, landscaped lawns and lots of people enjoying springtime. The focal point is a lake where people rent rowboats. We walked by Palacio Cibeles but didn’t have time to see the outlook. The Appels (Larry, Caren, Molly, Rebecca and Michael) are also in Madrid and we met them for Shabbat services at the conservative synagogue. Although I didn’t understand the Spanish I could follow many of the Hebrew prayers even though some of the melodies are different. The Rabbi asked one of the congregants to translate the parshah in English for us, which was very nice. Apparently there is a very small Jewish community in Madrid, only about 6,000, most of which are Orthodox. After services the Appels treated us to dinner. It was great seeing them, especially in Madrid on Shabbat.

WOW! Another Fantastic Day in Valencia!

Wow! What a full day! Started off at the Catedral and saw what’s claimed to be the Holy Grail, the chalice from which Christ is said to have sipped during the Last Supper. Then on to La Lonja, a 15th century building that was originally Valencia’s silk and commodity exchange. A 15th century World Trade Center if you will. Highlights were the 1st floor with its coffered ceiling and tile floor (looks 3-D but it’s not). Across the street I visited the Mercado, Valencia’s central market, which has unbelievable fresh produce, fish, meat, you name it, they have it. A quick lunch and rest and then off to Museo de Bellas Artes in the afternoon. Highlights include works by Goya & El Greco to name a few. At 5 pm I joined a walking tour in Spanish and English. I thought the tour was 2 hours but it turned out to be 4! It was fabulous but I was exhausted by the time it ended at 9 pm. We saw several of the “special” Fallas. It turns out the “special” ones are not just a couple of statues they’re an entire scene. Extremely elaborate. In fact the “special” ones cost over $200,000 to build. And the most absurd part.....they’re all burned down the last night of the festival except for the winner. Can you believe they build these Fallas all year long with great expense and time, and then they’re gone in a flash. WOW! Glad I’m NOT going to be here on Monday night at midnight when they set them all on fire. I can only imagine what a scene that will be. Even though tonight is only the 2nd night of the week-long festival this town is HOPPING. Throngs of people are out in the streets. Neon lights are everywhere. Firecrackers are exploding all over the place. At midnight there’s an organized fireworks display. What a day!

Arrived in Valencia

When I arrived this afternoon I stumbled upon a parade, complete with elaborate traditional gowns, to the main square of the city. At 2 pm (everyday during the week-long festival) they have an event called “Mascieta” in the main square. They explode 120 kilos of gunpowder translated into a lot of noise and smoke (but no fireworks). There are throngs of people and debris flying everywhere. Luckily I was able to “escape” inside a fast food restaurant. Jay would have hated it.

I had a huge fixed price lunch with paella and fish and chips at Seu-Xerea. Why not, Valencia is the home of paella.

Then I went to an exhibition of ninots (small statues) made by children. Each neighborhood builds papier-mache statues called a fallas. Fallas can be just about anything but they’re usually satirical in nature. Fallas are made up of smaller figures called ninots. Fallas take a whole year to plan and build, and they can be several stories high. Each neighborhood tries to out do the other one to see who’s the best. Some of the children’s ninots were very funny. Dinner in the hotel was excellent and very convenient. Hotel Ad Hoc is a great location and very good find.

Off to Spain

Off to Spain to visit Evie who’s doing a study abroad in Madrid. First stop: A couple of days in Valencia to check out Las Fallas, an annual festival celebrated there every March. The flight over was WHOW! I lucked into a business class frequent flyer ticket. Delux dinner accompanied by wine and after dinner drinks. Best of all, a seat that actually reclined like a bed.