We slept wonderfully with our window open to the sound of the sea. Best night’s sleep so far. Woke to a spectacular view from our balcony of LaConcha beach and promenade. We took a bus to Getaria, a charming fishing village on the Cantabrian Sea, about 25 minutes away. We visited the newly opened Balenciaga Museum. Balenciaga, the grand Maestro of modern couture, was born in this village and his first designs were for the aristocracy who summered here. The fabulous collection is housed in Queen Fabiola of Belgium’s former summer home. Evie loved seeing this fashion museum. After tapas for lunch we called a cab to take us to a local winery called Txomin Etxaniz where I had arranged a tour at 4:30 pm. The driver showed up in a Mercedes no less and drove super fast around curvy roads while blasting American music really loud. It was a real hoot! The winery is situated on a rocky bluff overlooking the Atlantic, surrounded by sloped vineyards. The winery, family owned and operated since the 1600s, is known for its excellent Geteriako Txakolina. The wine is sold primarily in this region. The owner’s son gave us a private tour. He explained the history and production of this delightful white wine before a special tasting session accompanied by homemade anchovies. This tour was the real thing, not touristy in any way. Back to San Sebastian by bus. For dinner we went to Ni Neu, which means “I Myself” in Basque. It’s a new restaurant at the Kursaal, the auditorium and convention center. The restaurant’s slick black walls and spotlighted tables were the stage for a gourmet dinner including ravioli, salad with shrimp and potatoes, cod, lamb, peanut soufflé, and French toast with goat cheese ice cream. Of course the dinner included a bottle of wine. What a fabulous end to a memorable day.
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